The track is a strange one in many ways, with its processed spoken word, almost rap lyrics, its jinky chorus and firstly its Middle Eastern intro. But there are some intrigues behind the scenes, such as mentions of Yul Brynner who once played the King of Siam in The King and I.
As it goes,
the real King of Thailand, King Bhumibol Adulyadej or Rama IX is also Thailand’s King of Jazz,
having recorded many compositions throughout his lifetime and played with the
likes of Woody Herman and Benny Goodman.
The words and music of “One night in Bangkok” too were composed by none other than Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus, recently departed from ABBA, as well as Andrew Lloyd Webber collaborator and knight of the realm Sir Tim Rice. The track was originally part of the musical Chess, hence the references to the game in the video. The story of the musical is based around a bizarre love triangle set in the cold war era and inspired by Bobby Fischer amongst others (see also As though the shame would outlive him for more on this track…) As a further aside, ABBA have announced the release of a new track this week, an archival recording left in the vaults from the sessions that produced their last album “The Visitors” from 1981. By this stage the creative and emotional burn out from touring and wife swapping had put tainted the bands usual pop swagger with more mournful strains and introspective words.
But back to
Thailand… one of the main attractions of down town Bangkok away from the
temples and reclining Buddhas is the tourist Mecca of the Khao San Road,
essentially a busy street lined with bars, restaurants and hotels. At night the
streets flood with food vendors while the sidewalks are perpetually cluttered
with T-shirt sellers.
The most
popular shirts are the singlet tops, great for avoiding the humid heat and also
for showing off your body, an important part of the youthful hormone-charged scene
it appears. The designs on offer range from the usual mock ups of famous brands,
some well-done copies of more standard designer shirts featuring Banksy designs
etc, to classic Asian beer commercials (Chang, Singha, Tiger etc) and even to
the odd band shirt. However, the striking thing about Khao San and the T-shirt
culture is not that exists, but that it is universal. It was as if every
backpacker passing through town had the obligation to head straight to Khao
San, buy a shirt and get into it straight away to say “I’m here. I belong. I have
the knowledge”. The clonal nature of the culture on the street was staggering,
more so since it absorbed people from many countries and languages and absorbed
them instantly. My last night there I overheard a conversation from two
Canadian guys in their early twenties. They were trying to pull two girls by
asking them some travel advice, having mentioned they’d just got off the plane.
Both of them already had on their Tiger beer singlets and were ready.
One shirt I
did grab for myself was a Velvet Underground shirt featuring the classic banana
design. I didn’t wear the shirt until I got back home out of some principle of
resistance and almost the same day came across this report in the Guardian
about how the group had launched legal action against the Andy Warhol Foundation
for attempting to sell the rights to use the famous banana logo to Apple. The
same week Megaupload went under as has been widely reported and the parallels
are obvious: essentially free merchandise in an unregulated market place where
none of the profits or benefits go to the artist. But the other side is, how
much profit ever went to Lou Reed et al anyway back in the day? Is the new dawn
really a return to corporate control and stockpiling profits in the hands of
record company executives?
One of 2011s most prolific producers was BNJMN (aka Ben Thomas) who released two exceptional albums “Black Square” and “Plastic World”, on Rush Hour. The title track to the former features a sampled loop of “All tomorrows parties”
BNJM has
also just released a new single on the Second Kiss label run by Little White
Earbuds editor Steve Mizek that does not feature any music by the Velvet
Underground, but offers instead a more direct house track with a less cerebral
arrangement and sound design.
But down
the Khao San road is also one other hangover from the backpacker scene of south
east Asia: Goan trance and the trite music of Full Moon Parties.
There are
several vendors on the street blaring out and selling pirate CDs and mixes. It’s
funny how this music almost does not exist outside of this context. Sure, you
can find a few trance clubs around, a section of your local electronic music
mag has a few reviews, but there is little critical acceptance or even
promotional interviews outside the channels already designed for fans. One
problem is that trance has always been lowest common denominator dance music
almost since the beginning, catering to those more inclined to drugs than music.
Its market place in such meat head environments as Full Moon Parties also doesn’t
help and neither does its continual association with the God Ganesh, god of
music and the arts, Thai dye shirts and all the other moronic psychedelic
trappings. Trance it seems is also not the music that travels well with you through
the ages, like The Doors. More than most music, it perhaps has a narrower window
where it is ok to enjoy it (as judged by peer approval) and where it is physically
possible to enjoy it in terms of party culture and those around you and whether
they are worth spending time with or not.
What then ever
happened to a genuine Cyber Punk movement that shops like Cyber Dog in London
used to promote? Did the music not evolve enough to take more people with it? Personally
I always appreciated some of the sounds and intentions of trance, but always
found the chemical-flavoured production aesthetic too limiting and too
ridiculous. The fashion too was incredible: authentically futuristic, provocative and even erotic at times, but
clearly too much for the modern day and age. One of its beauties though, was
that it required a philosophical commitment almost, like Rockabilly guys and girls with their hair
and tattoos, and was something not for everyone.
Years ago I had the pleasure of seeing Green Nuns of the Revolution playing live at the Melkweg in Amsterdam the night before New Year’s Eve. I was alone and there in the spirit of my housemate Eric who was a big fan. The crowd was insanely committed: one young guy dressed in full tin foil robot outfit, several others more the vinyl and plastic Cyber Dog style and even a few really old folk still dressed in the same rags they had in the 60s, beards almost down to the ground.
I met an American guy at a gig a year or so ago who told me of an alternative, darker and less-commercial strain of trance that he had been listening to that sounded intriguing, but alas, I couldn’t find anything on the internet. Is there any good trance left in the world, like this Voyager remix of System 7?
Perhaps
better might have been a trip to see the famous Thai Elephant Orchestra?
Finally,
Khao San should not be confused with Khe Sanh, the mythical Cold Chisel song
originally released and censored from airplay in Australia 1978. The song
details the life and restlessness of an Australian Vietnam veteran and features
many controversial lyrics, including the lines “Their legs where open, but
their minds were closed” which could equally relate to Thailand’s Patpong district
as equally as to the Hong Kong girls of the song.
By a strange twist of fate Scottish-born front man Jimmy Barnes is actually married to a Thai woman and their family has a lovely restaurant called Amarin Thai on Rokeby Road in Perth. Jimmy has been spotted there occasionally when in town.
In anycase, Happy New Year and properous 2555 to all those in Thailand.